Within the recent past (last few years or so) I have overcome one of my deep seated childhood food revulsions, beans. For the longest time I could not get past the texture. Something about the smushiness combined with the resistance of the skin gave me the willies.
But no longer.
And when I discovered that I no longer despised beans, I kind of went on a bean bender. I wanted beans with every meal, I tried every kind of bean I could get my hands on. My new obsession with beans lasted almost 9 months, and then I was burnt out. If beans were in something I would not reject it out of hand as I had before, but I no longer sought beans out with the determination of a bloodhound.
Now, I have found a happy medium. Beans are a part of our weekly diet, but they are not in every meal. At times they are bit players and at times they are the star attraction. This dish is so deeply satisfying that it does not allow you to lament the fact that you are eating a meatless meal. And it makes rocking leftovers.

Beans and Pasta, how can one go wrong?
Pasta e Fagioli
Adapted from Nigella Cooks
The Hardware:
Large Saucepan or small stockpot, Saute Pan, Blender, Tea ball (optional)
The Software:
1 lb Dried Cranberry Beans
1 T + 1 t Chopped Garlic
2 – 3 Sprigs Rosemary
1 Bay leaf
1 Onion, chopped
1 T Tomato Paste
2 C Chicken or Vegetable stock or Water
7 oz Ditalini
Parmesan Cheese
Olive Oil
Salt & Pepper to taste
1) Wash and pick through beans, soak overnight or for at least 6 hours.
2) Pour some olive oil into a large saucepan (or small stockpot) and sauté onions until just browned, add 1 T garlic and sauté briefly. Add beans and cover with water 2 inches over beans.
3) Place 2 sprigs of Rosemary and Bay leaf into the teaball and hang into pot. If you don’t feel like being all fancy with the teaball then you can use a sachet – which to me seems even fancier. Nigella tells you to put it into a knee-high stocking but I think that is kinda creepy/nasty. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 1 hour. Check periodically and after beans are tender add salt to taste. Start with less then you think you will need, you can adjust at the end.
4) When the beans are nearing the end of cooking, clean and mince additional rosemary, at least 1 teaspoon – more if you like. Remove 1 C of beans from the pot and put them in your blender. Puree them well, you might need to add a little of the cooking water. While doing this, bring the beans back to a boil with the addition of 1 C of stock or water and add pasta.
5) While pasta is cooking, bring a tablespoon or two of olive oil to medium heat in a sauté pan add 1 t garlic and sauté slowly until it begins to roast a bit then add the tomato paste, minced rosemary, some salt and some pepper. Sauté briefly and then add the pureed beans and stir together well. Turn heat to low and allow to blend, if it takes too long for the pasta to cook go ahead and turn the heat off of the sauté pan and let it hang out.
6) When the ditilini is al dente, add the pureed bean mixture back to the big pot and stir well. If it seems too thick add more stock or water. Continue cooking at a simmer until the pasta is completely tender. Adjust seasonings as you like.
7) Serve in a bowl with grated parmesan and if you like a little heat, a sprinkling of red pepper flakes.
Potential Hacks:
I have made this with a mirepoix mixture in the beginning and it turns out just as nicely with the added bonus of more veggies in the dish. You could also increase the amount of tomato paste if you wanted to up the tomatoey quotient.
There are as many recipes for this dish are there are Italian mamas, and I do not claim to be an Italian mama. One of the significant variations between versions is it’s end thickness. In some interpretations you get a tomatoey broth with beans and pasta floating about among a variety of veggies. In other interpretations you could slice yourself off a chunk like cold macaroni and cheese.
Your best bet is to tinker with this until it makes you happy. The only thing you need to be careful about is when you add the salt. If you add salt at the beginning of the cooking process your beans will take forever to soften, if they soften at all. Don’t know why, if you find out let me know O.K.?

April 2, 2009 at 5:32 am
The reason that the beans won’t soften if you add the salt too early is osmosis, that pesky thing from elementary school, junior high science, and high school chemistry…
Basically, because there is a higher quantity of solute (i.e. the ‘meat’ of the bean) inside the bean, the water which has a very low concentration of solute (i.e. stuff dissolved in the water) you get a concentration gradient from the area of low concentration to the area of high concentration (i.e water moves into the bean). However, this process slows down and stops as the amount of solute on each side approaches equality. So by adding salt to the water, you increase the amount of solute in the water thus slowing or preventing an osmotic gradient (depends on how much salt you use), and as the water dutifully boils away the salt concentration increases in the water making the problem even worse. The same thing happens with rice, its a pain in the ass!
Wow… that came out sounding a lot more complex and geeky than I have expected… errr…. hope that clears it up?
April 3, 2009 at 2:16 pm
Thanks for the science lesson
. It is good to know the why for things that just seem to happen magically. But sometimes it is more fun to assume it is the bean gnomes.
April 3, 2009 at 12:28 pm
I’m with you on the beans – I finally learned how to cook them from scratch and have abandoned canned beans forever for the wonderful variety I can get at the farmers’ market! We have them a few times a week in all kinds of dishes.
April 3, 2009 at 2:17 pm
I am dying to try out Rancho Gordo, what with all of the press it is getting. But it seems kind of self defeating to mail order beans that are double the price of regular beans.
I am going to try and grow some interesting beans in my garden this year. For some reason I had never thought of growing beans for drying.
April 8, 2009 at 12:49 am
That pasta looks good!
May 28, 2009 at 3:20 pm
I just used your recipe for inspiration and the basis of dinner. My husband keeps saying, “It’s good… it’s really good…”
Thank you!
May 28, 2009 at 5:52 pm
Fantastic! What tweaks did you insert – I might want to “borrow” them.
May 28, 2009 at 6:12 pm
Well…*smile*… I always have this hankering for pasta and beans and whenever I reach for the two my husband cringes. However, I was not deterred!
I started with the garlic and onion in the pan, then tossed in chopped courgette (zucc.) and “fake” chicken (Quorn) and also some frozen peas. Cooked this for 5 mins. or so then added the stock and tomato paste and cooked this for a few minutes then turned it off.
I cooked the pasta separate.
Next I opened, drained & rinsed a can of butter beans – threw a couple in with vege/chicken mix (out of spite?) and then pureed the rest along with some rosemary olive oil and a bit if water. It made a lovely puree which I spooned into the vege/chicken mix et voila!
I had also grilled some strips of courgettes which I then put down on a plate, scooped plain pasta over and topped with the vege/chicken/bean sauce.
It was fab.
I could now make this again in 30 minutes, which is great for a nice home-cooked meal after a day at the office.
thanks again!